items with a "*" shows new info added

1. Main Wheels
After seeing a set of "vintage" wheels available, I was not satisfied with a plastic disc and some raised sections suggesting spokes. I did a little looking and came up with an article in Model Aviation (Sept. 98), "Wire Wheels for Antique Aeroplanes" by Alex Morton. The article gives very complete directions for making up a set of true spoked rims. I am going to make up a set of jigs to construct the 3-3/4" wheels for the Golden Oldie and try this method. If anyone wants to borrow the jigs once I am done with them, they are more than welcome to.

*2. Tail and Fuselage
Construction of the tail feathers and fuselage go very smooth if the directions are followed closely - just make sure when you sand and glue the fuselage sides together at the tail, make sure you do it over the plans and everything lines up exactly to ensure a true fuse. Do yourself a BIG favor, plan out and drill the firewall for fuel lines and throttle cable before attaching cowl. It can be done after but will be a lot easier before!

I ran into a minor problem - using the tail wheel bracket called for in the plans, I discovered that the rudder is going to hit the bracket. The lines on the plans are about 1/16th of an inch wide - if you build to the outside of the plan your rudder will be too big - build to the inside of the lines on this piece and you will be fine.

3. Wing Center Sections
After constructing the wing center sections - before you pull the section off the building plan, glue the wing halves in place. It is very convenient to have the center section fastened to the building board at this time and it makes setting the dihedral very easy. (note - before you build the center make sure you will have room to insert the wing halves into the center section.)
 
 

4. A Different Method of Building Over Plans
Something to try if you use the pin method of building: I use a spray available in most hardware stores called Super 77 spray adhesive instead of pins. I use a mahogany door (purchased very cheaply at the lumber yard as a defect) to build on. A light coat of Super 77 is sprayed on the back of the section of plans that I am using. Allowing about 3 min for the glue to "set" I smooth the plan down on the door. The combination of a light coat and the drying time will insure the plan will lift off the building surface easily when I am ready to remove it. I then repeat the spray procedure on one side of a sheet of wax paper, after the 3 min. I smooth the wax paper over my plan and then apply a light coat to the top of the wax paper. As you build, parts are placed right over the plan as you would if you were pinning but.... the Spray Glue will hold them in position. It is amazing how well the parts will stay in place but when you are done with a piece, lift a corner and you can gently remove the piece without problems. If you've never tried this method use it on a simple tail feather next time you build and see what you think! This method also makes it very, very easy to build a flat wing.

5. Extended Wings
The article mentions the option of extending each wing panel by one bay. By doing this, the wing will generate the extra lift needed to fly off floats (BTW - I will be playing with RCM plans for vintage floats to put on the model). If you have any thoughts towards flying off the water with it be sure to add the extra bay on all 4 wing panels. I questioned Mr. Reese on the statement in the article about adding 1 degree of positive incidence on the stab if extending the wing and he stated he really didn't feel it was needed. He thought if you fly "low and slow" as the plane was intended that any excessive climb under full power could easily be trimmed out with the radio. If you are doing the extended wings make sure you get the strip aileron horns that are long enough! The set called for in the plans will be about 5/8" too short on the extended wings. Something to consider - if you install the aileron torque rods at the point you are told to in the instructions (extended wing version only), you will end up having to notch 2 wing ribs to do it. The torque rod needs to go through 3 ribs - the first (next to the barn door style aileron) can be drilled with a drill bit held in the hand, the middle and inboard rib cannot be drilled after the wing halves are together. The inboard rib can be notched and it will not show as the rib is going to have sheeting over it. The middle rib is the one that needs to be looked at. I discovered this after joining the halves to the center section and ended up notching it for the torque rod and I will now glue a piece of balsa in the notch and sand to match the rib. I would think that one would be able to drill the 2 ribs on the wing half before building the halves. This way the torque rods could be slid in the 2 ribs before they are glued into the wing. This way you would have the torque rod already in place on the wing half before glueing the 3 pieces together. Whatever you choose, look the plans over carefully and think this through before you build the lower wing halves.

6. Cowl
Make sure that before you attach cowl to the fuse that everything that needs to be done in the engine compartment/firewall area is complete. Your space to work in this area will be very limited once the cowl is in place.

7. Landing Gear
The landing gear was bent up over the plans as normal. After a good cleaning and wrapping the pieces with copper wire (that had had the laquer insulation sanded off)  they were soldered together. Use one of these little refillable butane "micro" torches - they allow you to get a good amount of heat focused on where it is needed - much easier than a soldering gun or propane torch. I used silver solder (if you do go with silver solder, clean everything well first, then make sure you use the proper flux - after the soldering is complete I boiled the piece in water/dishwasher detergent to get all traces of the flux off, if you don't things will rust VERY quickly).

*8. Radio Installation
The radio/servo space in this plane is very limited. While you do not need to go to micro servos, you do need to plan out your installation carefully. Make sure when putting the 3 servos in the fuse that they are mounted very close to the cockpit floor - the more you can gain here the less chance of running into problems with the aileron servo or torque rods. DO NOT plan on using one of the combo switch/external charge jack set ups, there is no room!